No I wouldn’t accept it. I agree that testing for high speed is critical and reject or make them redo any that are out of spec.
This is what a contractor needs to certify Ethernet wiring.
Fluke Networks 4285109 Model DSX-5000 120 Cable Analyzer Module, Set of CAT 6A/Class EA Permanent Link Adaptors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGHAOM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IT8xEb94EFYAS
Oy, how does a normal person deal with the difference between a $14 cable tester, and a $11,000 cable tester. I have guesses, but no real ideas.
You may be able to rent one, or you could (with luck) find an outfit which uses them to test their installations, and pay them to test your installation. Good luck.
I could show you even worse crimping jobs, for phone and Ethernet, done by the local telco, where the jacket doesn’t even enter the shell. We’ve lived here over 40 years and have had Ethernet for over 20 and have never had a connection fail. It’s in the wall and the wires aren’t strained. Corrosion is more of a potential issue. I have had ethernet “patch” cables fail, but they have been in-room and subject to abuse.
What @tomalmy said…
Inexpensive cable testers such as you’ll find at big box hardware stores only test physical continuity and proper arrangement of the wires.
To test signal carrying capacity you’ll need a cable verifier or a cable certifier. Fluke is the industry standard and a cable.
Here’s the definitive answer, but the TL;DR is a verifier is around $1100 and a certifier is around $11,000
I use the Fluke verifier and it has pay for itself many time over in non-obvious ways:
I proved to a wiring sub one of their pulls was bad. They were not satisfied when I complained network gear didn’t work because of the cable. They pulled a long cable out of a conduit and found a knot twisted it in. No apology offered, but I was glad to have an instrument acting on my behalf as pulling the replacement took another 1/2 day of their labor they had to eat.
I found a bad wire in my own home that would never run faster than 100mbit. I assumed it was due to older Cat5 cable, but was able to determine with the help of the tester that the punchdown was actually bad. Re-punched the wire, and data rates went back up to 1Gig.
On a related note, I verified, but not certified, that much older in-wall Cat 5 (not Cat 5E, or Cat 6) could run fine up to 1 Gbps even though Cat 5 is only rated to 100Mbit.
I’ll leave it to you to decide whether you are comfortable with a verified but not certified data rate for use with 1 Gbps gear. For me, be able to use a wired connection instead of wireless was more important than textbook “certified”.
But do note that I only use fully managed Ethernet switches which gives me the ability to troubleshoot individual cable runs easily including forcing a cable to a specific speed versus letting it try to auto-negotiate on it’s own, etc.
I use the pocketethernet tester one in combination with the basic cable tester. It allows me to determine the distance to a possible break in a cable, length, termination, POE voltage, DHCP and a bunch of other things. Handy to have and don’t want to spend the big money on a real deal Fluke.
This is great! I love it when a company innovates by leveraging the incredible processor and display device we now all have in our pockets, which allows so much more functionality out of the gate and in the future via easy app updates. Thanks for sharing I’m buying one of these now.
Below is some follow-up for all who replied, and thank you!
My apology for the delayed response; my wife and I helped my daughter move into the newly-constructed home and have been busy with move-in activities, complicated by the Covid-19 situation.
Pictures of the (almost) completed structure panel wiring:
[Above] The orange tubes are conduits to the outside cable/fiber connection, the attic and the crawl space beneath the house. Synology RT2600 router is mounted above the structure box. Inside the box are a 12-port Cable Matters patch panel, 8-port Netgear switch and modem for the gigabit fiber connection from CenturyLink.
[Above] On the left is the 12-port Cable Matters patch panel. A bundle of 4 Cat 6 ethernet cables enters the back of the patch panel from above, another 4 cables from below. Unused coax cables are tucked away at the top of the structure box.
I removed the poorly-installed RJ45 terminals and connected all of the ethernet cables in the patch panel. The fiber optic cable was installed through the conduit from outside the house, connected to the modem pictured. Synology RT2600AC router is mounted on the wall above the structure box. A second wi-fi access point (Eero version 1, left over from a previous home, now set up in bridge mode) was placed downstairs, connected by cat6 ethernet. Wi-fi coverage throughout the house is excellent.
@Cbales - Yes, we declined to purchase more services (security system, home automation, distributed audio, etc.) from the builder’s home wiring partner firm. I think we made the right choice to install the basic package of ethernet cabling in various locations, the structure box and the conduits. Coax cables were also installed as part of this basic package, but these will be unused as my daughter has elected to use streaming services (Hulu, Youtube TV) rather than traditional cable company content.
This installation was timely. The internet service provider (Centurylink in the Raleigh NC area) installed the gigabit fiber connection only a few days before my daughter was required to work from home due to the CV-19 restrictions. She now has a good internet connection and reliable home network perfect for her needs.
Thanks again for all who replied. I learned a great deal from this project.
There’s something calming about a finished project like this. Great job!
Agreed. Cleaned up nice!
Nice looking setup. And that cabinet has enough space to mount a Raspberry Pi to run Pi-hole on
Great idea! My hyper-controlling (adult) children insist that I stay at my daughter’s home during the CV-19 stay-at-home period, so I need a “nerd” project to keep me entertained.
Any helpful tips or pointers on setting up Pi-hole would be appreciated.
It’s pretty simple to set up.
- Install the software (instructions on the above site)
- Configure your DHCP server (probably the router) to use the Pi-hole device’s IP address for the primary DNS
- Block outbound DNS (port 53) on the router to force all traffic to use the Pi-hole.
If you want to see individual client device stats on the Pi-hole’s admin console, you’ll need to make the Pi-hole your DHCP server. Switch off DHCP on the router, and flip DHCP on in the Pi-hole control panel.
I would keep the Synology as the DHCP server and only use the Pi-Hole for DNS filtering. Works great! Its one of the few iT projects that gave me instant satisfaction and has remained trouble-free. It really makes a big difference while browsing the web!
This is a good case for it with a heat sink, no fan needed.
BTW how did you manage to wall mount the RT2600AC ?
@Alevyinroc, that is great advice, may I add a couple of points:
Make sure you get a good power supply for your pi. Inadequate power supplies are the fastest way to kill the sd card in your pi.
Your installation will be a lot easier if it allows you to change your DNS server(s), and if it allows you to disable IPV6 on your LAN side. If not, it can still be done but it requires more fiddling. This mostly comes up with ISP-supplied routers, since you have a Synology router you should be ok.
I wondered if someone would ask
The Synology’s long angled legs make the built-in mounting keyhole slots ridiculous. They’re an inch away from the wall and tilted at a 26-degree angle. See first two pictures below. The router is great, but Synology is making my life harder than it has to be!
A brilliant fellow named David H Brown used a 3D printer to create a proper mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2816079 ), but I have neither a 3D printer nor the skill to use one.
My solution was to mount the router to a 3" x 8" offset or spacer board, which was in turn mounted to the larger 8" x 18" main wall-mount board. The router’s keyhole mounting slots were placed on the heads of 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. The heads of the drywall screws were left 3/4" or so above the spacer board, allowing further clearance. Adjust the height of the drywall screw heads so that there is tension or friction as the router case is “pulled” against the angled inner edges of the router’s legs as they contact the edges of the spacer board. This is difficult to explain - see pictures.
I hope that the offset away from the main mounting board is sufficient to allow air circulation through the Synology router’s extensive air ventilation slots
I will eventually drill holes in the mounting board and drywall through which to pass the router’s power cable and two ethernet cables (one from the modem and another to the switch) into the space behind the drywall, then down into the structure box. I don’t like the 3 cables dangling down toward the structure box, possibly being crimped as the structure box door is closed.
Thanks for taking the time to explain, I get it