Recommendations for a mechanical keyboard?

Here’s something that hasn’t been recommended: build one yourself.

I have been into mechanical keyboards for 7 years now and I see 5 levels to obtaining a mechanical keyboard:

  1. Buy one. The easiest option.
  2. Assemble one. This requires buying the components and putting them together. You mainly need to understand what the main components of a keyboard are (switches, stabilizers, circuit board, etc.) and how to put them together. You can learn that easily from a YouTube video. Depending on what you want, you can either buy the parts together or separately (from different stores to get as much customizablity).
  3. Build one from a kit. This requires knowing how to solder and dealing with microcontrollers to flash the firmware.
  4. Build one by sourcing your own components, including the PCB. This requires a basic understanding of PCB software so you can order your own PCBs from China (or the US if you want). Then you need to source your own electronic components (from, e.g, DigiKey or Mouser), flash the microcontrollers, etc. You will also need to learn some basic vector software to get a case lasercut or CAD software to get one 3D printed. Some of my cheapest keyboards were built this way.
  5. The final level is designing a custom keyboard from scratch. This requires a fair bit of knowledge of PCB software + all of the above at a higher level, depending on how complicated your design is.

I have personally gone as far as level 4. It’s an intense but very fun hobby if you’re into electronics and tinkering (which I’m sure some people on here are, hence why I posted this.)

The upside of building your own is that it allows you to use weird layouts and small sizes (or huge if you’re into that), build macro pads, and program your keyboard to do virtually anything.

Here is my own keyboard (my apologies for the poor-quality picture, it was taken in haste). It’s an ergomechanical keyboard, I find them a lot more comfortable and I type quicker since it’s tiny. I designed my own layout. Very steep learning curve.

Here’s a macropad I recently built. I was using it for KM macros but I’m getting a StreamDeck soon.

And here is the one I built for my wife for our anniversary. A much more “normal” layout. She likes rose gold.

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Wow! Those look awesome! I have not considered it. Maybe one day when I don’t have as many projects as I do now!

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Keychron’s are back in stock at a UK supplier. They have K2, K6 and K8. Anyone have any thoughts on which one to go for?

I went from an Apple keyboard to a Keychron K3 and am very happy with it. I went with optical brown switches, which are very quiet.

It almost entirely depends on the layout you prefer. K6 would be tough for me without the function keys. Other than layout, I think the only big difference is that K2 won’t let you hot swap switches like the other two.

That’s interesting the description for the K2 v2 seems to suggest you can hot swap.

Anyone know the difference between tactile, click and linear? It’s a mine field.

I would (and did) spring for one of these switch testers that has one each of the most popular switches, plus o-rings. The (optional) o-rings damp the bottom of the keystroke, make it a little easier on your fingers, and a little less clacky. That way you can see what they feel like, how your fingers and ears like them.

Ah, good! My mistake. They haven’t updated their comparison table yet.

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Tactile switches give you a feedback as the key bounced back after a key press.

Tactile comes in two flavours - Brown switches which are quiet and Blue switches which are noisy. Blues are called clicky because of the noise it made.

Linear switches do not give you feedback after key presses. They feel like you are pressing on an air pump.

Sort of.
Here’s a good summary.

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Do you like your keyboard loud? Clicky. Like a bump feeling to let you know the key registered? Tactile. Otherwise linear.

Those aren’t the only considerations though. Activation force is a big deal.

Even whole sets of switches aren’t that obscenely priced though….so I’d suggest getting a hot swappable board and play with possibilities.

Personally I landed on Kailh pink linear silents with low activation force - and I’m looking to swap springs for even less force.

Clicky for me.
I even recently purchased a Unicomp keyboard which uses buckling springs and it’s nice, but I started to get RSI again, as it’s a full size keyboard and I think I’m used to the tenkeyless designs now.

Personally, the K8 is the Keychron for me - I’m on my second one, only because I ditched the American ANSI layout and got myself an ISO layout. I did start with a K2, but the low profile keys didn’t agree with me.

Thanks for all the input. I’ve ordered a Keychron K2v2 tactile with hot-swappable gateron browns. Excited for it to arrive next week.

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A nice thing about hot-swappable switches is that the whole board doesn’t need to be the same switch. My spacebar and modifier keys are blue-like clicky, while my alphabeticals are brown-like tactile.

To that end, visiting sites like https://kbdfans.com/ is probably ill-advised…

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I’ve had my eyes on the Keychron K2 for quite a while.

I’ve seen a number of people talk about the keyboard being quite high and requiring a wrist rest when using it. Anyone have experience with this?

It seems to be the same height as the K8 I have and I have to use that with a wrist rest (as I like it being tilted up. If the keyboard is used flat then I don’t need to.

I’ve been using the K2 for several months. This is all personal preferences, but I needed the wrist rest. I would’ve found it unusable without.

fwiw, I also added double-O-rings (unbranded cheap from Amazon) which reduced the sound and softened the feel of each keypress.

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I am wondering, @ryanjamurphy: Are there any words of praise or caution, regarding the Planck? I currently use the Keychron K3 with the red switches and thanks to Karabiner Elements already use the concept of layers (raising/lowering). I wonder if the ortholinear layout really does make a difference and if there is something else or not so obvious that might be worth the change or if it is only my longing for something new and shiny… :wink:

Sorry for the delayed reply! I did not end up sticking with the Planck. Story’s over here:

I have been enjoying my Drop ALT for many months now.

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I have the Moonlander keyboard. I do not think the ortholinear layout really adds anything to the mix, just something new to learn, but my hands do not feel any less tired on it. I do think having a split keyboard does make an ergonomic difference. My first split keyboard is the ultimate hacking keyboard . It does not have an ortholinear layout. It is a solid build and I still use it occasionally. But, the Moonlander allows for more customization, so it is my regular keyboard. I have had to “move” standard keys around - return, shift, space.

As for typing speed, I am not very fast 40-50 wpm, so I did not notice much difference between a regular Dvorak keyboard and the split keyboard, except my hands are less tired.

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